Dinner at Gary Danko

I cannot believe that I nearly wrapped-up my birthday summary without mentioning my dinner at Gary Danko! My cheeks are flushed with shame! To be sure, it's been a busy week, but this morning I noticed two little  gold-foil wrapped  confections on my counter and promptly remembered to take it to work for a treat. What could it be? Well, just prior to departure from Gary Danko - your car has been called, bill has been paid, and the last dregs of your wine & coffee have been imbibed, little gold-foil "morning cakes" arrive for the ladies at the table. A little souvenir of the evening, so you will remember how well Gary Danko treated you the night before. So, this morning I had my utterly indulgent (and totally not *dietary*) chocolate-cream cheese mini cake. Oh Gary, how did you know?

Gary Danko is one of the only Mobile Five-Star restaurants in San Francisco (maybe the world?) and is also a member of the Relais & Chateaux group. Dining here is always an experience. Such an experience that I didn't eat much more than a slice of bread on Tuesday before we went there for dinner. My parents always take me out somewhere like this for my birthday, and while last year we switched up the restaurant choice, I knew I wanted to go back to Gary Danko this year. Good choice.

My four courses?:

Appetizer: Wild Burgundy Escargot with Fennel-Potato Cake and Confit of Meyer Lemon
Second: Pancetta Wrapped Frog Legs with Sunchoke Garlic Puree, Potato and Lentils
Meat: Herb Crusted Loin of Lamb with Soft Polenta, Olive Tapenade and Pepper Ragout
Dessert: Baked Chocolate Souffle with Two Sauces 

Between main courses and dessert, we did share a few tastes of cheese as well - Sally Jackson, Cowgirl Creamery, an interesting blue from Massachusetts, and Pugs Leap from Sonoma. My Dad even ordered the Merry Edwards Pinot Noir, which is always a treat.

Yes, Gary Danko makes you feel as though you are Gigi, dining with Gaston at Maxim's for the first time. It is easy to believe that a diamond bracelet is going to pop out of the woodwork as some point. It's elegant, fun, and always enjoyable...

Now comes the commentary from someone whose standards were set far too high at far too young an age, but I'll tell the truth. Gary Danko used to be better. The flavors used to explode on the tongue, and you could taste every single nuance of the ingredients set before you. These days, the food is indeed very very good, but not as exceptional as it once was. Personally, I think it has to do with the service and table turnovers. There are two seatings, 5:30 and 8PM, and if you are seated at 5:30, the staff makes damn sure you're out of there by ten minutes to eight. Restaurants like Gary Danko should pride themselves on preserving the old-world dining experience of leisure, enjoyment, and savoring of each moment. Instead, second courses arrive just as appetizers are cleared and you haven't had a chance to sip any wine. They bring coffee & petit fours with your dessert (ahem, coffee is a separate course gents, you still should be drinking wine with your dessert...) and the table is over-crowded with sweets. They ask for your valet ticket when you still want to sit back and enjoy your coffee. A digestif or whiskey is out of the question. You want me out of this table and this dinner is costing how much?

Yes, a lot of the leisurely enjoyment has departed from the experience, which is not to say that I don't love the place, I do, but in every restaurant, five stars or no, there is always room for improvement. Gary Danko is a place for occasions to be celebrated and milestones shared - how can you do that if you don't have time to enjoy the moment? Let's slow down and taste the food and wine. After all, I'm only thirty once!

Comments

[Genevieve]

Oooh la la--this is where I'd have my last meal on Earth... I have never felt so adult, so special, so almost-royal eating here than anywhwere else. Their food is a religious experience!