Closet of Vintage
Wednesday, January 17, 2007 at 11:01AM 
A very-wearable Balenciaga coat from the mid-century collection at The Frock.comToday I'm wearing one of my favorite pieces from my vintage collection: an embroidered Chinese silk jacket. The base color is black with white cuffs and edging, and the embroidery is every color imaginable. Since it's lined, it's warm, and that's an important consideration this week. I can wear it with black pants, but usually pair it with jeans, and either a black tee or camisole underneath. It beautiful, comfortable, and since it's so old, no one else has anything that's remotely similar.
I found this jacket at my favorite vintage store on Haight Street: La Rosa Vintage, where I've also found a Lilli Ann tweed swing coat with mink collar. Other favorite vintage items in my closet? Another Lilli Ann suit of nubby wool that has a sleek pencil skirt and a fabulous shaped jacet with a peplum and 3/4-length dolman sleeves. I also have a real, live, authentic Pucci shirtwaist dress from the late 1960s. The sleeves are fantastic, and the print is a fun melee of purple, plum, and blue. There's a few other pieces here and there, but those are my gems...though I always have my eye out for something new.
Vintage coats and jewelry are a great way to sport and old piece without looking dated. Some cocktail dresses, hats, and gloves will indeed bring a beautiful flair to your wardrobe, but be careful about how you wear it. Remember, the swing-music trend has pretty-much died out, and you probably won't find too many opportunities to be that decked out in head-to-toe vintage. It's all about the mix. Pair a vintage shift with a new jacket, or vintage jacket with a sharp pair of jeans. My sister has a great white vintage shift that has a little floral embroidery, and wears it with an adorable Louis Vuitton cropped jacket to polish the look. Remember: old and new, high and low...
Dior Suit with Cape - I want to cry I love it so much! - at The Frock.comWhen buying vintage you must know your size. Vintage sizing is odd, and usually doesn't match up to our current sizing standards, so it's really helpful to know your measurements. People trying vintage pieces may also find that despite finding the appropriate size, the item may not hang just right, or fit quite perfectly. This is generally due to the fact that vintage garments were worn over a lot more underwear than we're used to wearing. Things like gertles, stomachers, garter-belts, merry widows, and even corsets were completely normal and expected unmentionable attire - even up until about thirty years ago (and are probably still worn in some circles today.) All of this reinforcement and strategic engineering underneath will indeed alter the drape of a gown.
Size knowledge is especially important when buying vintage online. Online you say? Sacre bleu! No, really - online vintage shops are fantastic. They have more stock than is available in your local store, and the prices are very fair. Be sure to check all return/exchange policies, just in case.
Another consideration is the fragility of vintage garments. Silk thread that's about thirty-plus years old is going to break - it's just what it does. Fibers get brittle over time, and you really don't want to subject yourself to that scary seam-popping sound when you're chatting up a fellow at happy hour. (No darling, it isn't what you ate yesterday, it's just old...) If you can, I recommend running a reinforcing stitchline on all of your sideseams and underarm seams, or if you don't feel comfortable doing this your local tailor can do it for you. For dry cleaning, I recommend a reputable French laundry. This will be much more expensive than your average "three shirts for $2.99" place, but it's important to take your best garments somewhere that will actually pay attention to them in the cleaning.
One more thing to know: your designers. Claire McCardell and Norman Norell may no longer be household names, but they were at one time, and finding one of their pieces will indeed be a collector's coup! For wearable pieces, I recommend Lilli Ann - a great mid-range brand from major mid-century department stores. Lilli Ann has a fabulous cut, and the fabrics are beautiful. One of my favorite parts of vintage clothing are the labels inside - they often tell you not only the designer name, but where the item originally came from. Long lost department store names from mid-western cities are the most fun. Just imagine who wore it first! Also, start to consider what you like and what will be flattering to you. Want to start collecting Eisenberg rhinestones? Keep your eye out for good pieces (and save your pennies, my love!) and even ask some dealers to keep an eye out for you. Build relationships with the vendors - they'll keep you in mind on their next buying trip!
Edwardian-era Fortuny blouse at Vintage Textile - could wear this out tonight!Now, one last bit of advice: don't buy vintage willy-nilly, hold out for the good stuff that fits you and that you love. But, by the same token, if you find that perfect piece - BUY IT! If you don't someone else will, and it will be gone from your vintage collection forever. You only get one chance at this.
Some of my favorite online vintage stores:
Vintage Martini - love it! Gets updated frequently...
A Midnight Sparkle - especially for coats and jewelry. A great selection of signed and unsigned pieces. It takes a little while to navigate through everything, but it's fabulous...
For the collectors:
The Frock - absolutely gorgeous pieces! This San Francisco-based company offers a real education in vintage designers and pieces. Find things that should be on the red carpet today!
Vintage Textile - another gem. Beautiful early-20th century pieces that you usually see in films, all photographed beautifully to showcase their colors and details.
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