The Anthro Effect

The Anthropologie "Presents 08" CatalogLast weekend I let myself spend some time at Anthropologie. Now, this can be a highly dangerous activity for normal women, but I've found that the danger comes when rushing through the store and buying indiscriminately. This time, I took control of the situation and recognized the cute-overload for just what it was: and evil ploy to rid me of my money. In so doing, I could take a deep breath, slow down, and take it all in.

The masterminds at Anthropologie have distinguished their brand by its sheer girlishness. A brand that exploded in the early 2000s, it popped onto the scene when the dot-com crowd was young, stylish, and had full pockets. It was the perfect product line for the "cool job" and the new economy which distinguished itself from the old by accepting casual offices, youth, and femininity. Anthropologie was the darling of the hour and hasn't quit since.

While Banana Republic says "we're mod, lean, kinda boring, and perfect for work, " and Zara says "we're Euro and cheap, but totally dashing," Anthropologie practically screams its validation for just being a girl. It says: "we're here, we're cool, we're girls." It says it so loudly that the nob must be turned to eleven.

From the "Presents 08" catalog...Anthropologie knows what we like: knitwear, floral patterns, delicacy, buttons, monograms, appliques, stripes, ribbons, flounces, embroidery, sashes, vintage, bright colors, bedding, romance, tea cups, and scented soaps. They tell us that it's okay to light candles during the day, just because, and that dressing a vintage chandelier in Spanish moss and twine is not only chic but totally normal. They tell us that we too could live life on the cusp between a World War II era kitchen and a Paris flea market. They tell us that if we were truly creative we'd recycle our old junk into clever visual props that would make everyone go gooey with delight. In fact, "gooey with delight" is really the whole point.

After twenty minutes in the store my head begins to spin. Dizzy from the sensory cute overload, or that scented candle that's meant to evoke laundry drying in a French lavender field... I'm not sure which. I notice "the boyfriend" section is completely full with obviously uncomfortable men who are trying very hard not to put their hands anywhere, while they are also trying very hard not to make eye contact with anyone. Yes, it's the look common to caged animals and those enduring torture.

The sale section is crammed to the rafters with redlines and the women who love to buy them. But what do they really buy? My theory is that everything at Anthropologie always looks better on the hanger than it does in real life. Or, as to quote this fabulous post from Decorno:

"How about something that fits? How about something that is not an empire waist? Anthro clothes are for women who no longer want to get laid, or who are already dating a boy who isn't interested in sleeping with girls anyway."

Um, yeah. (And Decorno is my new favorite thing. I also found the beautiful blog called Breakfast at Anthropologie which is just as lovely as the brand, but that blogger too frequently expresses her own frustration at the brand in her posts, despite her love.)

True, the visual merchandising is truly amazing. Opulent, clever, and pitch-perfect each season. Take a look at the gorgeous holiday windows photographed by Platinum Blonde Life at Rockefeller Center. I definitely do give props for creating the atmosphere most girls want to fall into and never leave, but still, how well does that translate to reality?

Much like the fit of the clothes, my feeling is that the Anthropologie brand doesn't quite suit the current climate, and it will probably only get worse. While this is always a store I love to visit, it's rare that I actually make a purchase; the items are too specific, too styled, too detailed - it's like they wear you instead of the other way around. They're nice to haves, not need to haves, and as we all know, the luxuries are definitely back burner these days.

So, despite overall adorable-ness, charm, and girlish appeal, can Anthropologie survive this new new economy? How does a brand founded on cute suddenly become more serious and hard-working? I guess it's time for the Anthropologie girl to grow up...

Comments

[Genevieve]

You so hit this on the head Annie! I have become such a disloyal customer to them that--gasp!--don't even receive their catalogs anymore. Apparently, I am not worthy. But I like admiring them afar anyway, and see how they're adding their girly touch to what's on the runway. Can they survive the economy downturn? As long as there are girls everywhere who desire Old Word-styled fashion and home delights, then yes.

[Suzi]

I have to disagree. Every season Anthropologie does three variations on a theme: Girly, Ethnic and Modern. That is all they do and I feel they do it quite well. They put NO MONEY into advertising but instead focus on creating a pleasurable shopping experience for their well-read, 30+, educated, typical female demographic. And I believe they do that very well. I agree with you Annie that speeding through the store is no way to shop, and Anthropologie knows it too. The average consumer spends a half hour in many retail stores, but the average Anthropologie customer spends a hour. the average purchase per customer is $80. That's remarkably good cosidering this economy. As long as I can go to Anthropologie for my fix of 1960's French Girl looking outfits, I will be very satisfied and loyal. And perhaps I am fortunate, but I have never had a problem with fit. I suspect though that this is because I know some things, like the empire waists, do not suit me, so I stick to the styles which do.
I hope you do not mind my posting a differing opinion, but I feel Anthropologie is the necessary quantum negative to crappy sweat-shop cheaply made junk one finds at retail giants like Forever 21. I would rather spend $150 on a quality sweater at Anthropologie, then get 10 sweaters at F21 and look like and overly trend obsessed cheapskate. But then I prefer fewer good clothes to a ton of lesser quality garments.
Thanks very much for the wonderful blog!
Suzi

[Mini]

Here's the thing about Anthropologie: I love their aesthetic, but given that I can neither afford nor fit into their clothes, looking at them makes me physically ill with jealousy. I would kill to have an all-Anthropologie wardrobe and looked like I stepped out of the womb with a 1960s vibe and a modern sensibility. Alas, this can never be, so I too avoid that store.

[Pamela]

Love your post. I used to shop there all the time. I now wonder if I got too old, or if the clothes is just not made as well. I do walk in ready to buy- seduced by the beautiful displays and scents. I have not been able to find anything there in a while, but may have to check out the sale rack.

[hope505]

Interesting point about Anthro...I have shopped online and in-store both and I'll have to say I still like them. As with any other store, you can swoop on sale items if your timing is right and come out of there with decently-made clothes at average prices on sale. Also I'm a curvy girl & am always pleasantly surprised to find plenty of stuff to fit me at size 14-16. I can definitely see them possibly adopting some kind of 'rosie-the-riveter' sensibility to adapt to the changing fiscal climate....