Cartier and America at the Legion of Honor
Saturday, March 6, 2010 at 3:48PM
Elizabeth Taylor wearing her ruby & diamond suite from Mike Todd in 1958; photograph by Mike ToddTomorrow, the much anticipated, format-changing, dual-host Oscar show will be finally coming to ABC. Like everyone, I enjoy the red carpet show the most and generally find the actual awards marathon to be a complete snore. Just bring on the clothes!
Always an essential element to every red carpet look is the jewelry. Neil Lane, Fred Leighton, Bulgari – the big names definitely come out to bedeck Hollywood’s brightest stars with bling to beat the band. I always feel a little cheated having to watch this opulence from long distance; not just because I’m hundreds of miles away, but also because those TV cameras just don’t zoom in close enough on the good stuff. So, before settling in with your remote and a glass of bubbly on Sunday night, why not start your day with a closer look at the real thing?
Oscar day is the perfect occasion to pay a visit to the Cartier and America exhibit at the Legion of Honor museum. Not only because it will prepare your eye for the red carpet event in the evening, but also because you will see some incredible pieces of jewelry that have their own place in Hollywood history. Here's the plan: sleep late, brunch, Cartier and America, home for the Oscars. Perfect Sunday, right? Read on...

Rock crystal & diamond bracelets by Cartier, 1930. Owned by Gloria Swanson.
Swanson in "Sunset Boulevard" wearing the bracelets above.First, and probably my most favorite, are the rock crystal and diamond articulated bracelets worn by Gloria Swanson in Sunset Boulevard. This pair is big, bold, simple, and certainly could be worn today with ease. There’s also Grace Kelly’s 10 carat engagement ring (worn famously in High Society) and also Dame Elizabeth Taylor’s own ruby and diamond suite given to her by her second husband, Mike Todd, in 1957. There are also two extravagantly engineered pieces made for famous Mexican film star Maria Felix: an articulated diamond and enamel snake necklace, and a pair of glittering crocodiles that can be worn alone as a pair of bracelets or together as a dramatic necklace.
The exhibit is full of famous pieces from the glamorous worlds of society and art alike. I found the background descriptions and history to be just as enticing as the pieces themselves – like a juicy issue of Vanity Fair with jewelry on the side. Treasures that once belonged to the Duchess of Windsor, Daisy Fellowes, Doris Duke, Barbara Hutton, and Linda Lee Thomas (Mrs. Cole Porter) dot the exhibit, hinting at the colorful, glittering lives of those who once wore them.
Crocodile Necklace (also separates into 2 braclets) by Cartier, 1975. Owned by Maria Felix.The house of Cartier is well known for its crisp art deco motifs and the signature leopard designs, but this exhibit also showcases the other lesser-known hallmarks of the brand. It is in this show that one can see the design and engineering that goes into each piece of Cartier, from the comfort of articulated joinery to the clever ingenuity of converting a pendant to a brooch to a bracelet. This type of masterful creativity and design are what make a true luxury brand great. Another house signature is shown in the choice of the gemstones; Cartier was always careful to choose specific color shades in each gem so that there is a certain “Cartier” coral and a “Cartier” sapphire, etc. This remarkable point of consistency and quality spans the many decades of design on display in the exhibit, reinforcing the enduring craftsmanship of the brand.
Cartier and America is an exhibit that shows how flawlessly art and design can combine in one; in beautiful, functional, wearable pieces of luxury. The glamour of Hollywood and the jet-set of yesteryear are just an added bonus that will certainly set the proper tone for your intense session of Oscar-viewing.
Cartier and America at the Legion of Honor Museum
Lincoln Park (34th Avenue & Clement St.)
Tuesday – Sunday 9:30AM – 5:15PM
$10 adults; $7 seniors, $6 youths 13 – 17; members and children under 12 are free
$10 surcharge for Cartier and America
Cartier,
Elizabeth Taylor,
Gloria Swanson,
Grace Kelly,
Oscars,
jewelry,
museums in
Movie Chic,
Past is Present 





















